Thinking of getting a higher mileage 2016

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notfred said:
ksoul2084 said:
limited my highway speed to 115km/hr.
That's not limiting! :shock:
The Soul is a big square box, not very aerodynamic at all. Put the cruise on at 105km/h on the highway and you will do far better on the range.

Oh I don't doubt it but there's a certain reality in needing to keep up with the flow of traffic on a busy highway. I'm not really comfortable driving like miss daisy on when everyone around me is going 120km+. :)
 
JejuSoul said:
You posted these numbers for your car last week. From this and your latest report, I too would guess that your battery is fast approaching 70% SOH. The battery warranty ends at 150,000km in Canada. To hit that deadline you will have to hope you reach 70% SOH before then.

Fast driving in the Soul EV isn't just less efficient; it also degrades the battery fast. Unlike my assumption that for beanman his used Soul EV will suit his needs for a decade or more, I doubt yours is going to keep you happy for more than a few months. Unless you get the new battery, and then look after the car better than the previous taxi driver did.

The warranty is Canada is actually 160,000km. I'm thinking driving it for another few months "normally" and see how it goes. I would hope to get a replacement battery well before the warranty expires.

Another problem is that there are no EV certified KIA dealers in my province (Alberta). I haven't tried to bring it in to one here to see what they say but I kind of assume that I might need to transport the vehicle to a dealer in BC if I require warranty work.

Oh, and KIA Canada mentioned that the vehicle hasn't had this recall done yet:
"Campaign #170069 - PSEV OBC Logic Improvement and inspection and replacement"

I wonder if they might want to apply that and then make me drive it for awhile before they'd approve a battery replacement? Very inconvenient if I have to take it out of province to have it done.

ksoul2084 said:
- Replacement side-mirror (used from a wrecker), this will correct a broken signal light and worn out mirror adjuster.
The motor on one of my side mirrors has worn out also. How much did you pay for a replacement?, was it from a gasoline Soul?, how easy was it to replace?[/quote]

Yes, any Soul mirror 2015-2018 that has the correct features (heated, retractable, signal light, etc.) will fit. Cost from the wrecker was $150Cdn (about $110 USD). Dead simple to change just remove the plastic cover on the door with a screwdriver, 3x10mm bolts and 1 wiring plug to remove/attach. :)
 
Hey everyone,

So I decided to take the wiring out of the car today and found the SECOND KEY FOB and the AUX/USB unit completely intact!

The FOB was so exciting to find, they had it connected around one of the NFC wires by winding the wire around the fob about 15 times, very odd.

Anyways some pics of the mess!

All the wiring from under the dash!

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The AUX/USB UNIT

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and the KEY FOB!!

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If anyone is going to grab the keyfob, to get the center console top half off (just the section below shifter no screws) You put the car in neutral and pull the knob straight up (takes some effort) and the knob pops off. Once you lift it out voila!

I hope other with these cars get a chance to check this out! Was exciting find today.




P.S. Just a note, if you are not comfortable with the wiring get a professional to do it. There are about 6 splices overall, rest is interconnections and relays. if you disconnect the wire around the fob it goes to a relay (third party). you can cut the wire off the fob and attach it directly back to the harness itself.
 
Wow, that's amazing.
I figured the electrical/low voltage guy my dealer used left a disconnected wiring harness or two, but to find a second fob....Jackpot!
I wonder how many cabs are similarly modified.

So, with the car in the off position, through the gear into neutral and pop off both the knob and the panel at the same time? I know what I'm doing Sunday.

In somewhat related news, the BMS has reset in my SoulEV. I don't think it reset before the firmware upgrade, but it's done so now.

The numbers to start are:
SOH: 93.5%
Min_cell_deterioration_n: 42
Min_cell_deterioration_pct: 15
Max_cell_deterioration_n: 2
Max_cell_deterioration_pct: 18

I wonder how they'll change in the coming weeks but I'm happily seeing ~150km non-highway driving range. Pretty jazzed actually.
I was prepping for a conservative drop of 2% per 10,000km driven during 70% DC Charging for ~2.5 years. Battery is showing much better health than that (at least initially).
 
FueledUpRooster said:
Hey everyone,

So I decided to take the wiring out of the car today and found the SECOND KEY FOB and the AUX/USB unit completely intact!

The FOB was so exciting to find, they had it connected around one of the NFC wires by winding the wire around the fob about 15 times, very odd....

If anyone is going to grab the keyfob, to get the center console top half off (just the section below shifter no screws) You put the car in neutral and pull the knob straight up (takes some effort) and the knob pops off. Once you lift it out voila!

I hope other with these cars get a chance to check this out! Was exciting find today....

This is interesting. I have a 2018 and two dealers have been unable to program a second fob. Based on what you found, I wonder if this is because there is already a second fob under the console or if they have made a portion of near field communications inoperative by altering an NFC antenna. Does this sound plausible?

I got the shift knob off but can you please clarify how to get the console off?

Thanks!
 
Notice he says it is just the section around the shifter. It probably has some plastic clips. With a little prying from a screwdriver (or something made of plastic), it will probably come right off.
 
Yes, I noticed on the drive home that the part of the plastic assembly that includes the gear shift, about half the console closest to the front of the car, was secured so poorly that I dislodged it with little more than a fingernail and some pressure.

So I'm going to check tonight.

Since I can't change gears when the power is off, I assume I'm going to turn the car ON before selecting neutral.

Will it be obvious which space on which wiring harness to put the cable back into?

Trip meter + GOM shows about 145km total. Did use the AC and cooled seats a bit these last two days. Love the cooled seats.

Thank you.
 
So I was emboldened to pop off the housing around the shifter. Was not too hard to pop off the shifter knob in neutral, and pull the console out and up. Disconnecting one of two harnesses front under the console helped move it almost all the way out of the way so I could take a look.

Unless I missed it, because there are some crevices in there, I found no fob. I did see a bit of what was left of the modifications.

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I'm sure the after market audio connector used to connect to the aux that was pulled for the taxi mods.
What interests me the most is the spliced cable. It looks simple enough in that the original wiring harness has a thin green lead, then it was spliced and a blue lead was attached, and left. A few inches away you see where the original green wire continues. I think I should simply reconnect it. I of course have no idea what it does, but it's low voltage. Actually the gauges of the wire look different.... scratch that for now.

Not shown in this pic is another wiring harness termination, looks like it was from the taxi mod.

Annoying me is for the last few days when I turn the steering wheel I hear something rubbing up against the plastic in the steering column. Adjusting the telescopic wheel rarely changes anything.

Min/max degradation pct at 13/18, soh unchanged at 93.5, charged to 90% overnight.
 
beanman said:
So I was emboldened to pop off the housing around the shifter. Was not too hard to pop off the shifter knob in neutral, and pull the console out and up...


Ah. So from your description and photo it looks like the top of the housing needs to be pulled toward the rear of the car first and then up. I was definitely not doing that yesterday. :(
 
FueledUpRooster said:
Hey everyone,

So I decided to take the wiring out of the car today and found the SECOND KEY FOB and the AUX/USB unit completely intact!

The FOB was so exciting to find, they had it connected around one of the NFC wires by winding the wire around the fob about 15 times, very odd.
...

This is a remarkable find! :)

I will take a look at mine on Sunday and let you know what hidden "treasures", if any, I can uncover.
 
FueledUpRooster said:
https://youtu.be/x0oFrloTuc0

Thanks for making the effort to post that video after you'd already had yours apart and put back together - appreciated!

So I took my central console cover off today and... JACKPOT!

...USB board and 2nd smart key fob were both there exactly as FueledUpRooster indicated. The keyfob was wrapped in 12v wire in some sort of Faraday Cage I guess to prevent the car from detecting that it was there?

A little Goo gone to clean them up and everything is back together like factory. I also applied the SW upgrade and my car is now Apple CarPlay enabled, which I'm thrilled with. :D

So of my things to fix/do list from my earlier post:

Still to be done:
- Replacement side-mirror (used from a wrecker), this will correct a broken signal light and worn out mirror adjuster.
- Replacement steering wheel (slightly used from a wrecker). This will provide a much nicer steering wheel with no spray paint, etc.
- Replacement centre vent dash piece (from a wrecker). This will replace the piece with the holes in the dash.
- Re-connect USB connection now that the Cdn firmware update has been made available for CarPlay.
- See if I can figure out why the back-up camera isn't working (low priority).

...all are now complete except for figuring out why the back-up camera isn't working. I was also able to clean up the glue from the old green wrap on the doors and fenders with a little Goo gone. Also, as I noted previously my A/C doesn't work either due to what I believe to be lack of refrigerant. Fortunately, here in Calgary you don't actually NEED A/C as often as you'd think. ;)

I ran the car battery down to 7% remaining this week and managed 112km driven with 7km range left (est,), for a total range of 119km. I then recharged to 100%. It seems to have rebalanced the cells in a favourable manner. So prior to this the worst I'd seen it was most cells with 3.70v and a few outliers down at 3.64v and even one at 3.60v (cell #95). This had a corresponding max cell det. of 36.3% and a min cel det. of 19.1, with a 82.3%.

After the 100% recharge it is now showing 85km range (up from 81km on the previous charge), Max cell det. of 33.7%, Min cell det. of 0.7%, associated SOH is 92.8%. The cell map shows most cells at 4.06v, and few at 4.08v, and #95 which was a full tenth of a volt lower than the majority of the pack is now at 2 hundredths of a volt HIGHER than the rest of the pack (4.10v).
 
FueledUpRooster said:
https://youtu.be/x0oFrloTuc0

Thanks for making the video! Much appreciated. Removing the shift knob is no problem but no matter what I try I can't even start to lift the console. Either I'm weak or it has stronger clips. :)
 
I believe the reason for the keyfob to be wrapped like it was, was to provide all the drivers with a master key which would open the doors (My manual keys do not work). This way the taxi driver would be able to drop the car off and easily swap and start the next car without requiring the fob.

Who knows lol.

Also if you're having trouble maybe get some of those plastic interior pry tools and see if you can get under the front area, you want to pop that part of first so you can lift and pull forward.
 
ksoul, It's too bad you don't live closer to me, I could help you with the backup camera.

But to be honest look at the way they handled some of the dismantling they probably accidentally unplugged it, or it's not seeing the shifter position.

What happens when you put it in reverse? Does the screen just go blank? Or does it stay on the main screen?
 
FueledUpRooster said:
ksoul, It's too bad you don't live closer to me, I could help you with the backup camera.

But to be honest look at the way they handled some of the dismantling they probably accidentally unplugged it, or it's not seeing the shifter position.

What happens when you put it in reverse? Does the screen just go blank? Or does it stay on the main screen?

Yeah I'm assuming as much just haven't taken the time to access the back of the main screen module yet. When in reverse it goes into the camera "mode" but the screen is just black.

I also noticed that my remote trunk latch release on the keyfob doesn't work. If I press and hold the button the car will flash its lights but the trunk won't release. Possibly the same connector?
 
rscamp said:
FueledUpRooster said:
https://youtu.be/x0oFrloTuc0

Thanks for making the video! Much appreciated. Removing the shift knob is no problem but no matter what I try I can't even start to lift the console. Either I'm weak or it has stronger clips. :)

Try using a small/thin flathead screwdriver, wrap the end in electrical tape, and try prying the front/far end of the console up from the piece below it on both sides. Once you get it started to lift you should be able to move the screwdriver along the gap towards the shifter and gradually increase the gap. Then just forcefully lift the console piece straight up. Might be easier to get a grip if you wear those rubberized garden gloves.
 
Interesting. I thought these were generic fobs and the truck release simply didn't do anything as it wasn't a power lift gate. I'm going to check that out.

An observation: when driving this past weekend on an almost full charge, I noticed the lower portion the the battery charge meter, I think only the red dashes that indicate low charge, where intermittently flashing. No idea what that means.
 
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