Hi Everyone,
I've traded in my Kia Soul EV for a Hyundai Ioniq 6 so I'm stepping down as a moderator for this forum.
Thanks to everyone for their good behaviour over the past few years, I've only had to remove the occasional bit of spam and not get involved in locking threads and stuff like...
It's model year dependent. My 2016 has a pin above the J1772 that is driven out when the car is locked, and that stops the latch from being undone. It's still not very secure because you can easily push the pin back in if you have something like a pencil handy.
What reason did they give for the denial?
I need the weather to warm up a bit more before I can do a recalibration cycle, and that will hopefully drop the SoH into the replacement range.
Thanks to everyone who reports spam posts. We can then ban the users and delete the bad posts.
I've also had someone report a spam private message. Hopefully this isn't the start of a new wave, but if you do get one then please report it so that we can ban that user.
I've moved this to the forum for the 2014-2019.
You can only do the 80% on the timer. If you turn the timer off and charge immediately then it will charge all the way to 100%. You can always take a look at how long it will take to charge and just unplug it at that point.
There were some videos from Kia showing the factory making the 2nd generation Soul, and I think those mentioned that the chassis was designed to be both an ICE and EV.
This is why even though you are not meant to put a tow hitch on a Soul EV, there are still the mounting holes in the frame for...
Before you removed it from the car, did you take a look at SoulSpy readings with it charged and empty? That would clearly show which cells are bad as they would be out of line compared with the others.
There's no log file or report that I'm aware of. I wonder if the dealer may be able to access something that says why the last charge attempt aborted?
There's nothing special about the Kia level 1 EVSE cord. It's a standard cord and you could use one from another manufacturer to test.
I'm...
I think someone even reported a dealer measuring the 12V SoH rather than the main traction battery SoH. Definitely print out that TSB linked above, take it in, and ask for a copy of the screenshots showing the battery state.
I think you need to double check your wall socket, and the wiring and fuses / circuit breakers leading to it, you could be getting close to causing a fire.
The car monitors the charging voltage and if it sees it drop (from too much resistance from poor connections) then it will stop charging...
You only need to replace the OBC, the modules are separate.
I think you have the order of the modules wrong. I thought top was the switching module, then OBC, then EPCU.