JeroenE wrote:notfred wrote:Those current loops are the GFCI loops, current going out on one must match current coming back on the other else there is a Ground Fault. I think it is part of the standard and that's why I think you need a microcontroller. The EVSE does a startup test and drives all 3 LEDs before settling down.
I don't think it is part of the standard. I don't have ithe standard though (you have to pay to get it).
Another guy has posted images of his commercial available EVSE calles ev-box. That one is sold over here, you see them a lot. It looks like they are also sold elsewhere, but because it's Dutch company I'm guessing they are not very common elsewhere. If you click on the link you can see a bit more about them.
That EVSE does not have GFCI coils. It only has a controller, contactor/relay, power supply and wire connectors. Here is the original product the other guy bought second-hand:
And this is the inside:
You can find more pictures here, but all the rest don't show the green cable to the Type 1 connector.
In Europe most circuits have their own GFCI so it is not needed for appliances to do this on their own. But because there is probably none or very little difference between the EU and USA versions they are there anyway.
So, I opened up my ICCB again and this time took the time to remove the PCB and check the other side. As you predicted here is a microprocessor in the Kia ICCB too. I have updated my album with some pictures from the other side. Actually I removed the album and created another because for some reason I couldn't add pictures. Probably me, I never used imgur before.
The PCB is coated, I'm assuming for protection against moisture. This makes it impossible to read the make and model of the bigger components. On the cpu they have put a large sticker anyway. Because I removed the PCB I could see the writing on the side of the big black components and it is a relay. The writing is a little bit unclear, but I hope you can read it anyway. It days it is a 240V relay. I'm sure it'll switch 120V just fine, but perhaps they use different ones in the standard USA version?
Hey that's fantastic, thanks for all the detailed images. I'll have a look inside mine and see how it compares. Maybe the only difference IS the mains plug, and perhaps the duty cycle for the amperage (10A for you, 12A for us). I'll let you know once I have a moment to open it up.